You can’t tell a hotel by its cover

A huge fishing vessel out on the hard . This picture was taken at midnight.

A huge fishing vessel out on the hard . This picture was taken at midnight.

My quarters in Reykjavik was the Marina Hotel right on the waterfront. By some standards the hotel looks old-fashioned and, dare I say it, a little ratty. My room was L shaped and the bed took up all but two feet of the width of one leg of the L. But one day a fire alarm went off (false alarm). Instantly fireproof doors closed at both ends of my second-floor hall. That’s pretty sophisticated fire suppression. I tried one of them and could open it and pass through, but it was quite heavy.

Out my window I looked at a boat repair yard much like Boat Haven in Pt Townsend, with a variety of working boats on the hard. That was almost as interesting as the tours I took. A huge vessel is what they were refurbishing right in front of me. I suspect it is a whaler.

The huge gears and donkey engine that hauls out the big vessels. Each gear is about four feet in diameter

The huge gears and donkey engine that hauls out the big vessels. Each gear is about four feet in diameter

So how do they get a vessel that size up on the land? I saw no sign of a boat lift such as we have here. Rather they drag it out. I looked in the window of a shed immediately in front of the hotel’s front door and saw the gear system from hell, used to pull huge vessels ashore on skids.

In the six days I was there, they completed painting the green hull, added some stripes, and chalked off their plimsoll marks. The green was spray-painted, but they edged the stripes by hand, the whole length of her. Signs posted around the area warned drivers not to park their cars unless they like green.

And I pondered a thought that day: No matter how large the vessel you’re looking at, no matter where in the world she may be, she is still gone over by a human hand, every inch of her.